Arundel
A Properly English Town with a Castle on Top
There are some places in Britain that seem to have been designed specifically to appear on a chocolate box. Arundel is one of them. Perched above the River Arun in West Sussex, this delightful little town has just about everything you could ask for from an English historic town: a magnificent castle, an impressive cathedral, old streets, independent shops, antique dealers, pubs, cafés and enough history to keep the heritage brigade happy for several days.
And, unlike some supposedly historic towns which have been overwhelmed by chain shops and souvenir tat, Arundel has managed to retain much of its character. Its Georgian and Victorian buildings, narrow streets and steep approach to the castle give it a remarkably traditional feel.
The Castle
Dominating everything is, of course, Arundel Castle.
There has been a castle here since the Norman period, with the original castle dating from the late 11th century. The present building is a mixture of medieval fortification and later reconstruction, having been substantially transformed into a grand residence during the 18th and 19th centuries. It remains the seat of the Dukes of Norfolk and has nearly a thousand years of history attached to it.It is a seriously impressive sight as you approach the town, rising above the rooftops and looking every inch the medieval castle it is supposed to be.
Inside are grand state rooms, collections of art and furniture, bedrooms and all the other trappings you would expect from a house belonging to one of Britain's oldest aristocratic families. Outside, the extensive gardens are every bit as attractive, ranging from formal planting to the rather splendid Collector Earl's Garden and the glasshouses.
The castle isn't cheap, and you can certainly find yourself wondering whether you're paying to see the castle or helping to keep the roof on it. But there is a lot to see, and it is unquestionably the principal reason most people come to Arundel.
Opening times 2026: The 2026 season will run from Wednesday 1st April to Sunday 1st November.
Gardens 10.00 - 17.00, The Fitzalan Chapel 10.00 - 17.00 The Keep 10.00 - 16.30 and Castle rooms 12.00 - 17.00. Last admission is 16:00
Admission cost:-
Everything - Adults £31.00, Child (5-17) £13.00, Family 2 adults, 3 children £75.00
Castle and Gardens - Adults £29.00, Child (5-17) £13.00, Family 2 adults, 3 children £71.00
Gardens only - Adults £17.00, Child (5-17) £8.00,
The Cathedral
Then, rather surprisingly for such a small town, there is a cathedral.Arundel Cathedral of Our Lady & St Philip Howard dominates another part of the skyline and is a magnificent example of French Gothic Revival architecture. Built in the 19th century for the Catholic Dukes of Norfolk, it looks considerably older than it actually is and has the rather splendid appearance of a piece of northern France having somehow landed in Sussex.
Inside, it is beautifully proportioned, with a soaring nave, impressive stonework and some particularly fine stained glass. It is also one of those buildings that demonstrates just how much money and ambition the Victorians were prepared to throw at ecclesiastical architecture.
And just to confuse matters, next door is St Nicholas Church, a much older building with a very different character. The contrast between the medieval parish church and the Victorian Gothic cathedral is fascinating.
The Cathedral is generally open daily (typically 09:00 to 16:00 or dusk, though hours may vary for services and events)
The Town Itself
Don't make the mistake of treating Arundel as merely the place where the castle happens to be.The town is a pleasure to wander around. Tarrant Street in particular is full of character, with old buildings, antique shops, galleries, cafés and independent businesses. There are also plenty of little streets and corners where the best approach is simply to stop looking at the map and see where you end up.
This is the sort of town where you can quite easily spend an hour browsing an antique shop without having the slightest intention of buying anything.
Which, if you're anything like me, is an important part of the experience.
The River Arun runs alongside the town, providing a rather more tranquil contrast to the steep streets and imposing buildings. There are pleasant riverside walks, while Swanbourne Lake provides another attractive spot for a stroll.
Wetlands and Wildlife
Just outside the centre is the WWT Arundel Wetland Centre, set beside the River Arun. This provides a welcome change of pace from castles and churches, with wetlands, reed beds, woodland and plenty of birdlife.There are walks around the reserve and boat safaris, and the whole place makes particularly good use of the natural landscape. It is also a reminder that Arundel isn't simply a historic town sitting in splendid isolation — it is surrounded by some rather lovely Sussex countryside.
Admission: Adult: £17.90 (with Gift Aid) / £16.25 (without), Junior (3–17 years): £11.45 (with Gift Aid) / £10.40 (without), Concession (65+ & full-time student): £16.25 (with Gift Aid) / £14.75 (without), Young Adult (18–24 years): £16.25 (with Gift Aid) / £14.75 (without), Family (2 adults & 2 children): £49.85 (with Gift Aid) / £45.30 (without) These are "on the day" prices, it's slightly cheaper booking in advance.
WWT members have free admission
And then, of course, you have the South Downs virtually on the doorstep.
A Town That Hasn't Forgotten How to Be a Town
Perhaps what I like most about Arundel is that it still feels like a town rather than a tourist attraction.
Yes, tourism is important. Yes, the castle dominates the place. Yes, there are plenty of visitors wandering around clutching cameras and looking for somewhere to have lunch.
But underneath all that, Arundel still has the feel of a real community.
There are independent shops rather than endless branches of the same six retailers, traditional pubs, cafés and restaurants, markets and galleries. It has managed to combine its considerable history with the sort of everyday life that makes a town pleasant to visit rather than simply somewhere you tick off a list.
The Verdict
Arundel is one of those rare places where the photographs don't lie.It really is as pretty as it looks.
The castle is magnificent, the cathedral is unexpectedly spectacular, the old streets are a joy to explore and the River Arun and surrounding countryside provide plenty of opportunities to escape the crowds.
If you want modern shopping centres, tower blocks and traffic jams, look elsewhere.
If, however, you fancy a proper English town, complete with castle, cathedral, river, antiques, old pubs and enough history to keep you occupied, Arundel is difficult to beat.
Just bring comfortable shoes.
That castle is rather higher up than it looks from the car park.
(prices quoted correct as at September 2026)
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