Athens
There are some cities that you visit and immediately start planning your next trip. There are others where you enjoy yourself enormously and are already thinking about when you can return. And then there is Athens.I have been to Athens, I have seen Athens, and I have absolutely no intention of ever going back.
In fact, I dislike the place with a vengeance.
That may sound rather harsh, particularly when Athens is one of the world's great historic cities and contains one of the most famous buildings on the planet. Millions of people visit every year and come away raving about the history, the food, the atmosphere and the sunshine.
Good for them.
I didn't.
My overriding memory of Athens is of a city that felt dirty, untidy and thoroughly unpleasant. Rubbish seemed to be piled up in the streets, graffiti was everywhere and there was a general air of neglect that I found impossible to ignore. You can tell me all about the ancient Greeks, democracy, philosophy and the glory of classical civilisation, but none of that makes walking through streets covered in graffiti and surrounded by rubbish particularly enjoyable.And then there is the Metro.
I have travelled on underground systems all over the world and, generally speaking, I rather like them. They are quick, cheap and usually the easiest way of getting around a large city.
Athens was different.
I became increasingly aware of pickpockets operating on the Metro and, on several occasions, I was convinced that attempts were being made to get into my pockets. Three times they failed.On the fourth occasion, they didn't.
My passport was stolen.
That is the sort of thing that can turn a holiday into a very different experience rather quickly.
Having your passport stolen is bad enough. Trying to get the theft officially recorded can, apparently, be another experience altogether.
When I attempted to report what had happened to the Greek police, I found the process extraordinarily frustrating. My experience was that they were unwilling, or made it extremely difficult, to record the passport as stolen and instead wanted it recorded as lost.
Now perhaps there is a perfectly good administrative reason for this – well there is, it’s called keeping their crime figures down.
All I know is what happened to me.
And when you have just had your passport stolen, the last thing you want is to spend hours arguing about whether it was lost or stolen.
And I nearly forgot, the taxi drivers are hell bent on ripping you off.
The Acropolis
Of course, you cannot review Athens without mentioning the Acropolis.And yes, it is magnificent.
The Acropolis of Athens is one of those places that even somebody who dislikes the city has to admire. The Parthenon is an extraordinary survivor from a civilisation that has influenced much of the world, and standing up there looking across Athens does give you a sense of just how old and important this place really is.
It is also one of those attractions where you have to make allowances for the crowds.
There will be plenty of them.
You will also discover that Athens can be extremely hot, there is very little shade in some areas and you are walking over ancient stone surfaces that were never designed for several thousand tourists carrying cameras, water bottles and smartphones.
But don't misunderstand me.
The Acropolis is worth seeing.
It just wasn't enough to make me like Athens.
Standard general admission to the Acropolis costs €30 per person for the archaeological site and slopes. Separate admission to the nearby Acropolis Museum costs an additional €20 for general entry.
History Everywhere
This is the problem with Athens for somebody like me.I can quite happily acknowledge that it is historically fascinating while simultaneously not enjoying being there.
The city is packed with history. The Ancient Agora, the Roman remains, the Acropolis and countless archaeological sites provide an almost ridiculous amount of material for anybody interested in the ancient world.
You cannot walk very far without bumping into something that is thousands of years old.
For history lovers, Athens is potentially paradise.
For me, it was rather like being given a superb historical museum and discovering that somebody had built the museum in a city I couldn't stand.
The Evzones
Looking at the Evzones in their odd uniforms and even odder marching style, you would be forgiven for thinking they are some Ruritanian outfit who are there just for show.
You could not be further from the truth. These soldiers are the elite of the Greek forces.
These elite members of the Hellenic Army guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Mansion in Athens. Their deliberate, slow-motion high kicks and sweeping leg movements help maintain blood circulation after long periods of standing completely motionless.
They wear signature leather clogs with big black pom-poms called tsarouchia, which weigh about 3 kg each and feature dozens of nails on the soles to create a sharp clicking sound during marches.
The Uniform features a kilt-like pleated skirt called a fustanella with 400 folds symbolizing 400 years of Ottoman occupation.
The changing of the guard attracts a lot of visitors and is taken very seriously and woe betide any viewer who starts laughing at the marching – it will be notices, you will be told off.
No, I didn’t laugh but someone nearby did – they soon stopped laughing.
The Athens I Saw
Perhaps my biggest problem was that I never managed to get past the appearance and atmosphere of the modern city.
There are attractive parts of Athens. There are pleasant squares, smart restaurants, lively areas and some beautiful buildings.
But there are also streets where the graffiti seems almost competitive.One wall has graffiti. the next wall has more, then the shutters are covered in it, then the electricity boxes, then another wall.
Eventually you begin to wonder whether there is actually anything in Athens that hasn't been sprayed, painted or scribbled upon.
And then you encounter the rubbish.
Again, I appreciate that conditions vary and that my experience was not necessarily representative of every street in Athens or every day of the year.
But it was what I saw.
And when you combine rubbish, graffiti, crowded streets, aggressive traffic and the constant worry about being robbed, it isn't exactly a recipe for a relaxing city break.
The Food
Now here I have to admit defeat.
Even I can't blame Athens for everything.Greek food is excellent.
There are some wonderful dishes to try, and if you enjoy Mediterranean food you will have plenty to choose from. Souvlaki, moussaka, Greek salads, grilled meats, fresh fish and all manner of pastries and desserts are available.
So if you visit Athens and decide you hate the city as much as I did, at least you can console yourself with something decent to eat.
And there is plenty of choice.
Should You Visit Athens?
Yes.
There, I've said it.
Despite everything I have written above, I would still recommend that people who have never been to Athens should go at least once.
Why?
Because the history is extraordinary. You cannot really claim to have an interest in European history without appreciating the importance of Athens. The Acropolis alone is something everyone should probably see at least once.
Just don't expect me to come with you.
My advice would be to keep your wits about you, particularly on crowded public transport. Keep your valuables secure, take care of your passport and don't assume that because you are on holiday nobody is interested in your belongings.
And if you are unfortunate enough to lose something important, be prepared for the possibility that sorting it out may not be as straightforward as you expect.
The Final Verdict
Athens is one of those places where I can appreciate the attraction without appreciating the city.
The history is spectacular.
The Acropolis is spectacular.
The food is good.
The weather is generally pretty good.
But my memories are of rubbish in the streets, graffiti everywhere, unpleasant experiences on the Metro, having my passport stolen and then finding the process of reporting it extraordinarily frustrating.
Perhaps millions of visitors will read this and wonder what on earth I am talking about.
That's fine.
They can go and enjoy themselves.
I won't be joining them, and, as far as I'm concerned, once was quite enough.
(prices quoted correct as at August 2026)
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