Isle of Wight

There is something rather odd about the Isle of Wight.

It is only a short distance from the mainland, yet once you've crossed the Solent you somehow feel that you've gone abroad. Not properly abroad, obviously. Nobody checks your passport and you won't need to change your money. But there is a ferry, everyone suddenly becomes obsessed with the weather and, once you've arrived, you find yourself saying things like, "Well, we might as well go and look at the Needles."

And that's the Isle of Wight in a nutshell.

It is beautiful, undeniably. It has beaches, cliffs, countryside, pretty villages, historic buildings and enough attractions to keep you occupied for several days. The official tourism people rather like calling it "England in miniature", which is actually a pretty good description.

The problem, as usual, is that the Island knows it is a tourist destination.

And tourists are generally regarded as people who have arrived carrying money.

Getting there

Let's start with the ferry.

There are several ways of getting across the Solent, depending on where you are coming from and where on the Island you want to end up. The journey itself is perfectly pleasant, assuming you aren't standing on deck in February wondering why you didn't just stay at home.

The crossing is part of the experience, though, and there's something quite enjoyable about watching the mainland disappear behind you.

There are two ferry operators. Red Funnel operating a car ferry service from Southampton to East Cowes, taking about an hour, foot passengers are also carried on these crossings. For a faster, passenger only, crossing Red Jet operate from Southampton to West Cowes. 25 – 30 mins.

Wightlink operate two car ferry routes, Lymington – Yarmouth, a scenic route taking 40 minutes and ideal if you’re staying in the west of the island. The most popular route is Portsmouth to Fishbourne (situated between Ryde and Cowes) which is a 45 minute crossing

If you’re travelling as a foot passenger Wightlink’s Fast Cat service operates from Portsmouth Harbour Station to Ryde Pier Head, taking 22 minutes

For a unique foot passenger experience why not catch the worlds only passenger hovercraft service from Southsea to Ryde, crossing the Solent in just 10 minutes.

Getting Around

Obviously, a car is the best way to get around but bear in mind the roads are mostly narrow and twisty, a 5 mile journey on the island will probably take, at least twice as long as a 5 mile journey on the mainland. There is only one dual carriageway on the island and it's so short by the time you speed up it will be time to slow down again.

If you don’t drive, panic not, travel over as a foot passenger and use the extensive bus network on the island. In the summer they operate “Breezer” service, some in open top buses, some linking popular tourist attractions, others plain sightseeing trips.

Weekly freedom tickets are available £35.00 for adults, £27.00 for 17-18 year olds, £18.50 for a child (5-16). These tickets are discounted by a couple of quid if you purchase through their app. If you’re travelling as a group or family the a £77.00 weekly ticket covers up to 5 people travelling together, any age.

There is a single railway line running from Ryde Pier Head to Shanklin, stopping at Ryde Esplanade, Ryde St Johns, Brading and Sandown.

The Needles

Let's get the obvious one out of the way.

The Needles is the Isle of Wight's big-ticket attraction and, to be fair, it deserves its reputation. The famous chalk stacks sticking out of the sea, with the lighthouse sitting offshore, make one of those views that actually looks like the picture on the postcard.

There is also the Needles Landmark Attraction at Alum Bay, complete with the famous chairlift down towards the beach and the coloured cliffs.

The view is excellent.

The chairlift is fun.

The whole thing is very touristy.

And if you don't like touristy, you can always admire the scenery from the surrounding countryside without paying to ride anything.

That's the Old Moaner solution.

You can walk round the site free of charge, although it will cost you £7.00 to park, each attraction is individually priced, for example the chairlift is £11.00 return adult and £8.00 return for a child, single tickets are £6.00 / £5.00

Osborne House

If you've ever wondered how Queen Victoria spent her holidays, you can find out at Osborne House.
It was Victoria and Prince Albert's seaside retreat and is one of the Island's genuine must-see attractions. Unlike some places that call themselves historic because someone important once had a cup of tea there, Osborne really does have history.

The house is impressive, the grounds are extensive and the setting overlooking the Solent is superb.
It is also a useful reminder that when Queen Victoria wanted a little break from royal duties, she didn't book a cheap weekend at a Premier Inn.

Admission Adult 23.60, concession £21.80. child £11.80 (these are advanced prices, on the day prices will be higher.) English Heritage Members – free admission.

Carisbrooke Castle

For something completely different, head inland to Carisbrooke Castle.

This is proper old-fashioned castle territory, with walls, battlements, a keep and enough history to keep the enthusiasts happy. Charles I was imprisoned here for fourteen months before his execution.

It's a very good attraction and one of those places where you can spend a couple of hours without feeling that you've simply been marched through a museum.

Adult admission £16.30, concession £15.40. child £8.10 English Heritage Members – free admission.

Shanklin

Shanklin is probably what most people imagine when they think of an old-fashioned Isle of Wight seaside resort.

There's a beach, an esplanade, traditional holiday accommodation, amusements and plenty of places selling food that is considerably more expensive than it was when I was a child.

The Old Village is the prettier bit, with thatched cottages, tea rooms and narrow lanes.

Then there's Shanklin Chine, a wooded gorge leading down towards the sea.

Shanklin is touristy, but it is the right sort of touristy. You can wander around, have fish and chips, sit on the beach and generally behave as though you've gone on holiday in 1974.

Which, frankly, is one of the Island's attractions.

Ventnor

Ventnor is different again.

Built into the hillside on the south coast, it has a distinctly Victorian feel and has always attracted people looking for something a little more genteel than the traditional seaside resort.

There are attractive gardens, a seafront and some excellent views.

The problem is that Ventnor is built on a hill.

A very steep hill.

If you're perfectly fit, this is probably charming.

If you're not, it becomes an opportunity to discover just how many times you can say "Why didn't we park down there?"
Still, it is worth visiting.

Nearby you will find Ventnor Botanic Gardens, which takes advantage of the islands Mediterranean climate, here you will find plants growing outside that you wouldn’t find outside anywhere else in the UK.

Also, with the impact of climate change, these gardens may well demonstrate where the British garden sis heading in the coming decades.

Admission Adult (17+) 14.50, child (6-16) £7.00. Parking is £5 but free if you pay for garden admission.

Steephill Cove

Nestled between Ventnor town and the Botanic Gardens is one of the islands hidden gems.

Steephill Cove is inaccessible by car and is a good, healthy, steep walk but well worth a visit. There are even cottages to rent if you want somewhere different to stay.

Lobster pots are on the beach, a couple of café’s will sell you crab sandwiches.

It's a trek to get there, you need to be fit.

Is it worth it - absolutely.

Ryde

Ryde is the place many visitors first encounter because of its position on the eastern side of the Island.

It has a long pier, a proper traditional seafront and plenty of reminders of its Victorian holiday-resort past.

The pier itself is worth seeing and, unlike some seaside piers, Ryde's is actually useful because transport has used it for generations.

Ryde can look a little tired in places.

But that's not necessarily a criticism.

Some of us actually prefer seaside towns that haven't replaced every building with a block of luxury apartments and a coffee shop selling something called a "deconstructed breakfast."

There is a sublime chocolate shop on the sea front with hot chocolate drinks to die for.

Cowes

Then there is Cowes, which is where the Island remembers that sailing exists.

The town is famous internationally for Cowes Week and has a completely different atmosphere from Shanklin or Sandown. Boats, yachts, sailing clubs and people who know what every rope on a boat is called dominate the place.

For the rest of us, it's a pleasant waterfront town with shops, pubs and restaurants.

You can watch the boats.

You can admire the boats.

You can pretend to understand the boats.

Nobody will ask you to sail one.

The Steam Railway

Now this is one for the Old Moaner.

The Isle of Wight Steam Railway is exactly the sort of attraction that makes you wonder why everything can't still be done this way.

Beautifully restored steam locomotives, Victorian and Edwardian carriages and countryside drifting past the window. The oldest locomotive dates from 1876, while some of the carriages go back to 1864.

It is nostalgic without being naff and is just as enjoyable for adults as it is for children.

And, unusually for a tourist attraction, the standard ticket currently allows unlimited trips in the standard carriages and includes the facilities at Havenstreet.

Just sit back and enjoy it.

There aren't many opportunities left to do that.

Standard-class online tickets cost £26.00 for adults and £10.00 for children (ages 5–17), with up to 3 children entering free per paying adult. Gate prices are slightly higher at £29.50 for adults and £11.00 for a child. Infants (0–4) are free

Beaches

The Island has beaches everywhere.

Well, not literally everywhere, obviously, but there are enough of them to give you plenty of choice. Sandown, Shanklin, Ryde, Ventnor and the smaller coastal resorts all offer something different.

And then there are the quieter stretches where you can escape the crowds. Three of my favourites ate Compton Beach, Freshwater Bay and Totland Bay.

The official tourism people are quite right to make a big thing of the coastline. The Island has a remarkable variety of beaches and coastal scenery.

Blackgang Chine

If you have children, or simply haven't quite grown up, Blackgang Chine is another Island institution.

It bills itself as Britain's oldest amusement park and has been entertaining visitors for generations.

It is gloriously old-fashioned in places and doesn't try too hard to be something it isn't.

There are newer attractions as well, but part of its appeal is that slightly eccentric British seaside theme-park atmosphere.

The sort of place where you go in expecting a few rides and come out wondering why you have just spent three hours looking at dinosaurs.

Standard admission tickets for Blackgang Chine generally range from about £15.95 to £31.95 per person depending on peak or off-peak booking, with current summer promotional rates starting around £21.00. All regular tickets include free parking and a 7-day return pass

And there's plenty more

That's the thing about the Isle of Wight.

You can keep going.

There's Robin Hill, Monkey Haven, Tapnell Farm, Sandham Gardens and numerous museums, gardens, walking routes and smaller attractions. The Island has more than 100 family attractions and activities according to the official tourism organisation.

You could also spend your entire holiday doing absolutely none of them.

Walk – if you’re really into walking you can try the Isle of White Coastal path. Circumventing the island it stretches for 70 miles (112 mm) if you do it all but you can, obviously do it in bite size chunks. Whatever stretch you do, the scenery is stunning, albeit a tad blustery at times.

Drive around.

Find a village.

Have a pint.

Look at the sea.

Have another pint.

That's perfectly acceptable.

So, is it worth going?

Yes.

And that might be the biggest surprise of this review.

The Isle of Wight is touristy, parts of it are undeniably old-fashioned and some attractions can make you wonder whether the admission price includes a small piece of the building.

But underneath all that is a genuinely attractive place.

There is a tremendous variety of scenery for such a small island, the historic attractions are worthwhile, the seaside resorts still have character and there are enough things to do to keep most people occupied for several days.

And it doesn't feel like mainland Britain, that's probably its biggest selling point. You cross the water and everything slows down a little.
The roads get narrower, the countryside gets greener and suddenly nobody seems to be in quite such a hurry.

Just don't try to see the whole island in a day.

You will spend most of it in the car saying, "It's only another twenty minutes."

It isn't.

It never is.

(prices quoted correct as at August 2026)

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