Waddesdon Manor
A Little Bit of France in Buckinghamshire
If you are driving through the Buckinghamshire countryside and suddenly encounter what appears to be a French château, don't panic. You haven't somehow taken a wrong turn and ended up in the Loire Valley.
You've arrived at Waddesdon Manor.
Perched dramatically on a hill above the Vale of Aylesbury, Waddesdon is one of the most spectacular country houses in Britain. Built in the late 19th century for Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild, it was designed in the style of a French Renaissance château and was intended primarily as a country retreat and a place to entertain.
And entertain they certainly did.
The House
Waddesdon is not subtle, it positively struts around announcing how much money was spent on it.The towers, turrets, chimneys and elaborate stonework are magnificent, and the setting on the hilltop makes the whole thing even more impressive.
It was built between 1874 and 1889, and Ferdinand de Rothschild filled it with an extraordinary collection of French decorative arts, furniture, paintings and objects.
This was not intended to be a modest country retreat.
It was designed to impress and it still does.
Inside
The interior is every bit as lavish as the exterior suggests.
The Rothschild collection includes magnificent furniture, paintings, tapestries, porcelain and works of art, with the rooms arranged very much as they would have been when Waddesdon was being used for grand entertaining.
You quickly realise that the Rothschilds weren't people who believed in the phrase "less is more."
There are chandeliers, ornate ceilings, elaborate furniture and enough valuable objects to make you nervous about getting too close to anything.
The collection is particularly strong in French decorative arts, reflecting Ferdinand's fascination with the 18th-century French aristocratic world.
It is, in effect, a gigantic demonstration of what happens when somebody has excellent taste, enormous wealth and absolutely no reason to worry about the price tag.
The Gardens
But Waddesdon isn't just about the house. The gardens and grounds are magnificent, and for many visitors they are every bit as enjoyable as the building itself.
There are formal gardens immediately around the manor, with terraces, lawns, fountains, sculptures and carefully maintained planting.Beyond them the landscape becomes much more relaxed, with woodland, open parkland and spectacular views across the Vale of Aylesbury.
The gardens change considerably through the seasons, so there is always something different to see.
And because the house sits on top of a hill, there are some excellent views.
On a clear day, you can see for miles.
The Grounds and Family Attractions
Waddesdon also manages to cater for visitors who aren't particularly interested in aristocratic houses.
There are extensive grounds to explore, woodland walks, seasonal displays and family activities.
There is also a rather good aviary, containing a collection of exotic birds, which provides something completely different from the house and gardens.
The wider estate is also an important part of the attraction, with farmland and countryside managed alongside the formal gardens.
So you can make Waddesdon as grand or as relaxed as you like.
Spend the day examining priceless furniture and paintings, or simply wander around the grounds and enjoy the scenery.
Christmas at Waddesdon
If you get the opportunity to visit during the Christmas season, Waddesdon goes slightly bonkers.The house is decorated for Christmas, and there are lights, decorations, markets and seasonal events throughout the estate.
The illuminated gardens in particular can be spectacular. It is one of those occasions when you realise that a house which already looks like something out of a fairy tale can somehow be made even more theatrical.
A Word About the National Trust
Waddesdon is now cared for by the National Trust, although its history is slightly unusual because the property was gifted to the trust by the Rothschild family rather than simply being acquired in the conventional way.
The Rothschild family remains closely involved with the estate, and that helps explain why Waddesdon retains such a strong sense of its original identity.
It doesn't feel like a house that has simply been handed over to a museum service.
It still feels like Waddesdon.
The Verdict
Waddesdon Manor is quite simply one of the most spectacular country houses in Britain. It is grand, theatrical, slightly ridiculous and utterly magnificent.The French château architecture is extraordinary, the interiors contain an astonishing collection of art and furniture, and the gardens and views make the whole estate a pleasure to explore.
It is also a fascinating glimpse into the world of the enormously wealthy Victorian and Edwardian elite — a world in which building yourself a French château in Buckinghamshire apparently seemed like a perfectly reasonable thing to do.
And perhaps that's what makes Waddesdon so enjoyable.
It is a French Renaissance fantasy in the middle of Buckinghamshire, created by one of Britain's wealthiest families and maintained today as one of the country's great heritage attractions.
If you haven't been, put it on the list.
And if you've already been, you'll probably know exactly what I mean when I say:
You really can't miss the blessed thing.
Return to South East home page