Aberdeen


Aberdeen is one of those cities that seems to have been dealt a rather unfair hand by the tourist industry. It is rarely the first place people mention when planning a Scottish city break, being somewhat overshadowed by Edinburgh and Glasgow, yet Aberdeen has plenty going for it. Known as the Granite City, because so much of its grand architecture was constructed from the local silver-grey stone, it has a distinctive appearance unlike anywhere else in Scotland. When the sun catches those granite buildings, they can positively sparkle – hence another of its old nicknames, the Silver City by the Sea.

Aberdeen - Marischal CollegeThe heart of the city is Union Street, Aberdeen's main thoroughfare and once a very impressive piece of Victorian town planning. It is flanked by imposing granite buildings, churches, shops and civic architecture, although parts of it have suffered from the same problems that have affected high streets all over Britain. Nevertheless, look upwards rather than at the shopfronts and there is some magnificent architecture to admire.

One building that certainly doesn't require much searching is Marischal College, one of Aberdeen's great architectural showpieces. Its enormous granite façade is quite spectacular and is one of the most recognisable sights in the city. Nearby you'll find Provost Skene's House, the oldest surviving town house in Aberdeen, now telling the stories of notable people from the north-east.

The Aberdeen Art Gallery is another pleasant surprise. Following its refurbishment, it houses an impressive collection ranging from old masters and Scottish artists to major international names. It is exactly the sort of place that makes Aberdeen more rewarding than you might initially expect.

Old Aberdeen

Aberdeen street sceneFor me, however, the real gem is Old Aberdeen.

Despite being absorbed into the modern city, Old Aberdeen still feels like somewhere entirely separate. It has a history going back around a thousand years and remained an independent burgh until 1891. Its cobbled streets, ancient buildings and narrow lanes provide a remarkable contrast with the granite commercial centre.

The star attraction is King's College, founded in 1495. Its famous Crown Tower has become one of the symbols of Aberdeen, while the chapel retains a remarkable amount of its historic character. A short walk brings you to St Machar's Cathedral, whose origins go back to the 12th century and which has an extraordinary heraldic ceiling.

Don't rush Old Aberdeen. This is somewhere to wander rather than tick off a list. The Chanonry, old university buildings, cobbled lanes and historic houses are precisely the sort of things that give a city character, and thankfully they haven't all been sanitised into another collection of souvenir shops and coffee chains.

Aberdeen and the Sea

For all its granite, Aberdeen is very much a seaside city.

The harbour has been central to the city's fortunes for centuries and remains a busy working port. The Aberdeen Maritime Museum is well worth a visit, particularly if you have any interest in ships, the North Sea and the city's long relationship with the sea.

Aberdeen beachAnd then there is the beach.

Aberdeen Beach is a surprisingly long sweep of sand immediately beside the city, complete with the promenade and the attractions of Queens Links. It isn't necessarily the sort of beach that will have you booking a fortnight's holiday purely to lie on the sand, particularly given the North Sea temperatures, but it is a very pleasant place for a walk. On a decent day it is surprisingly attractive, and dolphins can sometimes be spotted around the coast.

At the southern end of the harbour is Footdee, universally known as 'Fittie'. This former fishing village is one of Aberdeen's real curiosities. Small cottages, tiny lanes and an almost village-like atmosphere survive right beside the enormous modern harbour. It is a wonderful example of how the old and new can exist almost side by side.

For another excellent view, head across to Torry Battery. The old battery occupies a dramatic position overlooking the harbour entrance and North Sea, and it is also one of the places where you have a chance of spotting dolphins.

Parks and Gardens

Aberdeen isn't short of green spaces either.

Duthie Park is one of the city's finest parks and is home to the David Welch Winter Gardens, an impressive collection of plants under glass. It makes a particularly good escape if the Scottish weather decides to behave like Scottish weather.

Aberdeen parkJohnston Gardens, meanwhile, is considerably smaller but beautifully landscaped, with streams, ponds, waterfalls, rockeries and bridges. It is one of those places that can easily be missed if you're concentrating solely on the headline attractions.

In the north of the city, Seaton Park provides another lovely green space, particularly around the River Don and St Machar's Cathedral. And if you've gone as far as Old Aberdeen, it would be foolish not to include it.

The city's museums in general are worth exploring, and Aberdeen has done a good job of making much of its cultural offering accessible without necessarily emptying your wallet.

So, Is Aberdeen Worth Visiting?

Yes – although I wouldn't suggest pretending it is Edinburgh.

Aberdeen is a working Scottish city rather than a giant open-air museum, and that is actually part of its appeal. There are areas that look tired, there are plenty of ordinary modern developments and, like most British cities, the centre has its share of vacant shops and urban clutter. But underneath it all is a city with considerable character.

Aberdeen HarbourThe combination of magnificent granite architecture, the historic world of Old Aberdeen, a genuine working harbour, a surprisingly good beach, Fittie, excellent museums and some lovely parks gives you considerably more to see than you might expect.

And there is another bonus: Aberdeen makes an excellent base for exploring the surrounding north-east of Scotland. Once outside the city, you have castles, whisky country, spectacular coastline, fishing villages and some magnificent scenery within easy reach.

So don't write Aberdeen off as merely an oil city full of granite buildings. It certainly has the oil industry in its DNA, but there is considerably more to it than that. Give it a couple of days, get out of the immediate city centre and explore Old Aberdeen and the coast, and you may well find yourself pleasantly surprised.

Old Moaner verdict: Aberdeen isn't Scotland's prettiest city and it certainly isn't perfect, but it has substance. It doesn't need to shout quite as loudly as Edinburgh to prove that it is worth visiting – and perhaps that's exactly why it has retained a little more of its character.

(prices quoted correct as at August 2026)

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